Vinyl Fences

Vinyl Fences: A Guide

Vinyl fences may be expensive than most wood products but the amount is gained back through the years. While wood is considered as the most versatile fencing material because of its flexibility to be fabricated into various designs, it is still not the most durable one. Vinyl is made of an indestructible PVC or polyvinyl chloride making it durable and sturdy. Vinyl fences looks good and needs no routine maintenance at all. Vinyl fences offer a variety of style but only limited colors.

There are three reasons why people opt for a vinyl fence. First, a vinyl fence is easy to install. They are lightweight and are sold in sections that fit together without the need of special tools and equipment that other fences require. Second, vinyl fences are colored all throughout the material that makes repainting no longer necessary. Third, vinyl fences do not decay unlike wood fences do. It will also not rust like metal fences and will never be a source of food for wood-boring insects.

Vinyl fences are sold with a kit that contains precut posts, rails and siding. Because the components come in precut lengths, there will be situations wherein the post is longer than needed. A hacksaw or fine-toothed handsaw will solve this issue. Special features such as lattice, gates and mounting hardware are also available.

How to Install a Vinyl Fence: 

1. Drive stakes into the ground past corner points. Stretch the mason’s string between the stakes and make sure they cross at a 90-degree angle to ensure a square corner. Keep in mind that an accurate layout is important in the first step.
2. Post should be in position along the strings. Lay them out then remove the strings and dig the postholes. For shallow holes, a shovel is used. For deep holes, use a posthole digger or a rental auger.
3. Pour 4 to 6 inches of crushed stone or gravel in the hole and set the post on top of the fill. Raise or lower the posts by adding or removing fill to the hole.
4. In a 90-degree angle, brace the post in the plumb position from 2 directions. Attach the bottom end of the braces to stakes driven into the ground. Then attach the top of the braces to the post using clamps.
5. Using a 2 or 4 feet level, double-check the post for plumb. Adjacent sides should be inspected and adjust the clamp to keep the post plumb.
6. Ensure that the post is securely braced in a plumb position. With a plastic tub and shovel, mix dry concrete and water into a stiff consistency. Pour the concrete mixture around the post and taper the top surface for water to run off.
7. When concrete has already set on the first post, slide the rails into their post mortises. Then add a post on the other ends of the rails and plumb and brace the second post in its hole.
8. When the second post is installed, use a 2 or 4 feet level to check the level of rails. If the ground has a gentle slope, push the top and bottom rails up or down slightly to conform to the slope.
9. Pre-assemble panels before installing them on the fence rails.
10. When panels are already resting in the bottom rail grove, cover the top edges with either a top rail or a mid-rail. Then spread top of the second post slightly for the rail to fit into the mortise. When the rail is in place, the post will move back.
11. Using a circular saw with a fine-toothed blade cut the lattice panel. Slice it into the mid-rail channel then push it against the post. Hold the lattice in place by installing the top fence rail.
12. When all fence sections are installed, finish the job by attaching a decorative cap on top of each post. Usually, these caps easily slide over the top of the posts and require no fastener.